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How to Use Photoshop to Resize and Sharpen Images for the Web
The post How to Use Photoshop to Resize and Sharpen Images for the Web appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter Dam.
Do you struggle with getting your images to look super sharp when you use them online? Do they even look blurry? No matter if you share your images on social media platforms or photo sharing sites like Flicker and 500px, you want your images to look as sharp as possible.
Most photographers come across web sharpening issues at some point. But did you know that most of the web sharpening issues you experience come from the resizing process? Resizing your image can make your image look blurry and a lot less sharp than the full sized image. You might have spent a long time processing your image so it would be a shame that it should end up as a less sharp online version.
In this article, you will learn the common pitfalls to sharpening your images for web use, and more importantly, how to sharpen in a way that gives you both full control and the best results.
However, let’s take a look at how not to resize images for online use before we dig into the best way to resize and sharpen in Photoshop.
How NOT to resize and sharpen your images for online use
To get sharp and great looking images online, avoid uploading a full-sized image and relying on the website to handle resizing for you. You don’t have any control over the amount of sharpening (if any) that a website’s upload function add to your image.
You should also avoid just using the export dialogue in Photoshop. Even though it is good, it is not great. You can still end up with blurry images, especially if there is a dramatic size change. Like if you want to resize a 6000px wide image to being only 1200px.
Also, avoid just resizing in Photoshop and then let the export tool do the rest if you want the best results. Even though you resize the image, you have little control of the sharpening process when you only use the export tool.
How to sharpen your images in Photoshop for the best results
To follow along, open a copy of an image that you have already processed in Photoshop, as we go through the best method for resizing and sharpening your photos for online use.
Note: Make sure you use a copy of the image and not the original because you are going to resize your image to a much smaller version. If you accidentally save the image without renaming and close Photoshop, you can’t recover the image back to its full size.
It would be logical to go straight ahead and resize your image to the output size you want. However, this won’t lead to the best results as it may be difficult for Photoshop to properly sharpen an image that suffers from a quality loss when you resize a lot.
Instead, resize in two steps and sharpen in between the steps.
Let’s go through the process step-by-step using the dimensions from above as an example, resizing from a 6000px wide image down to 1200px wide.
The first step is to resize your image down to approx. 1.6 of the final output size that you want to use online. In this case, this would be 1.6 X 1200px = 1920px.
To resize your image in Photoshop, you should go to Image->Image Size and enter the width.
This gives you an image that hasn’t degraded too much from being resized but is still relatively close to the final image size.
Before resizing to the final output size, you should add sharpening. You do this by going to Filter->Sharpen->Sharpen.
If you like to keep track of what each layer does, I suggest renaming the layer to “Sharpened.”
After applying this first layer of sharpening, duplicate the layer. You can do this by pressing CMD+J (on Mac) or CTRL+J (on Windows).
Then apply another round of sharpening by using the menu Filter->Sharpen->Sharpen. Rename this layer to “Extra sharpening.”
Now you are ready to resize to the final image size. You do this by going to Image->Image Size and enter 1200px as the width.
Now that you have resized the image to the final output size, you should see that the image looks very sharp when you view it at its actual size.
If you think that it looks somewhat over-sharpened, you can easily adjust it by just changing the opacity of the of the topmost layer (the one called “Extra sharpening”). Pull down the opacity to around 60-70%.
Now you are done with the sharpening process. However, you should know that there are additional issues that occur when resizing images.
Sharpening an image also tends to make it a tiny bit brighter. If you want to address this, you should add a Levels adjustment layer and pull the midtone point slightly to the right. Usually changing the midtone point to 0.97 brings back the original brightness level. You can also use an Exposure adjustment layer if you prefer to use that instead of a Levels adjustment layer.
The colors in your image also suffer a bit when resizing and sharpening; however, it is not always visible. If you find that your image looks a bit less colorful now that it is resized, you should add a Hue/Saturation adjustment layer and add a bit of saturation back into the image. About +5 to +9 usually brings your image back to the level it was before resizing and sharpening.
That is the end of the web resizing and sharpening method used by many professional photographers using Photoshop.
If you are familiar with creating Photoshop actions, you can record the process of resizing and sharpening images to the dimensions you most often use online. This allows you to speed up the process significantly.
Exporting your image
The final step is to export your image. You can do this by going to File -> Export -> Export As…
The setting you choose when exporting your image depends on where you want to upload your image. For some sites, like image galleries or your portfolio website, image quality is more important than the file size. Whereas, blogs prefer to have smaller file sizes, but with a bit lower image quality.
One of the most important things, as discussed in this article, is that the result is a sharp looking image. You already took care of this by following the sharpening and resizing workflow above, where you resized the image to the output size you need. This means that you don’t have to worry about resizing the image or what resample method to use during export.
The only thing to worry about when following this sharpening and resize workflow is choosing the file format you want and the quality to use. The file format is most likely going to be JPG for web use. The image quality settings depend on whether you prefer a really small file size (so the image loads lightning fast online), or whether you prefer to maintain the best image quality possible. Usually, you can lower the image quality to 80% without a visible drop in image quality. This is my preferred personal setting for image quality. You can optimize the file size even more by using a lower image quality. However, I would never recommend going lower than 50% to get smaller file sizes. There are also some image optimizing sites you can use, such as TinyJpeg, that lower your file size without compromising your image quality too much.
Conclusion
Admittedly, it is a lot more complicated method for resizing your images than using the inbuilt Export feature in Photoshop. However, it also leads to much better results. What use is it to put much effort into capturing and processing an image, if it doesn’t look as great as it could when you show it online?
What method do you use for sharpening your images before using them online? Feel free to share your thoughts in the comments below.
The post How to Use Photoshop to Resize and Sharpen Images for the Web appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Peter Dam.
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Nokia has unveiled the $699 Nokia 9 PureView, a high-end smartphone that comes with five cameras. The five cameras are arranged in a pentagon shape on the rear of the phone, and impressively don't add any extra bump or bulk. We got our hands on one at MWC 2019 to test out its five cameras. MORE TECH CONTENT: Samsung Galaxy Fold VS Huawei Mate X https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PP9GP6XU8U Watch Samsung Unveil Its Foldable Phone — The Galaxy Fold https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHR8efUn3SY Samsung Unveiled Its Galaxy Fold: Here Are The Best Features Of The $1,980 Foldable Phone https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEacXIC7R5Q ------------------------------------------------------ #Nokia #MobileWorldCongress #TechInsider Tech Insider tells you all you need to know about tech: gadgets, how-to's, gaming, science, digital culture, and more. Subscribe to our channel and visit us at: https://ift.tt/fxZ2E2 TI on Facebook: https://ift.tt/1fEbtRI TI on Instagram: https://ift.tt/1S8jzxH TI on Twitter: https://twitter.com/techinsider INSIDER on Snapchat: https://insder.co/2KJLtVo ------------------------------------------------------ Hands-On With Nokia's 5-Camera Smartphone
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Reverse Lens Macro – How to Make Macro Photos with “Backward Thinking”
The post Reverse Lens Macro – How to Make Macro Photos with “Backward Thinking” appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.
Occasionally a little “backward thinking” can be a good thing, especially when it comes to coming up with an economical way to do macro photography. Sure, you can shell out a few hundred dollars for a nice macro lens. You might give extension tubes or bellows a try, or even buy some closeup diopter lenses. But what if I told you how you could use that old film camera lens and an adapter easily purchased for under $15 to make some nice macro images? Might that not be a great and inexpensive way to explore the macro world? Great… now get ready to “think backwards.”
Yes, literally… You will need to think backward to take advantage of what is called “Reverse-Lens Macro Photography.” You will be mounting a lens backward on your camera so what is normally the front of the lens is the part that attaches to your camera. Before we look at how to do this, let’s first define “macro photography.”
What is “true” macro?
Many lens manufacturers indicate their lens has “macro capability” and they might even put the word “macro” on the lens. These lenses indeed allow you to focus closely on your subject. However, in the true sense of the term, a macro photo is one in which the size of the image recorded on the camera sensor is the same size (or larger) than the physical object photographed – a 1:1 magnification ratio or greater.
Here’s a practical example: A U.S. Quarter is 0.955 inches (24.26 mm) in diameter. A full-frame digital camera sensor measures 24mm x 36mm. So shot with a true macro lens on a full-frame camera, the uncropped image below represents a 1:1 magnification ratio or a true macro photograph. On a crop sensor camera where the sensor is 14.9×22.2mm (Canon) a 1:1 shot of a quarter would more than fill the frame. So, if the lens you’re using cannot focus close enough to fill the frame with a quarter, it might be a close-up lens but isn’t a true macro. Don’t be fooled by cropped images either. An image can be cropped tighter in editing, but that alone does not make it a “macro” photo.
Does it matter? No, not really. The fun is getting close to your subject. Close enough to see things you might not be able to see with your unaided eye. Whether it is a “true macro” may not matter unless you are entering a contest where only true macro shots are allowed. How close you can get depends on the equipment you have. How close is close enough? Well, that’s an artistic judgment.
Before we start… some cautions
Anytime you take the lens off your digital camera you expose the sensor and the insides to dust. You will be taking your lens off for this procedure. If you aren’t placing another (reversed) lens onto the camera, use a body cap to keep dust out until you are ready.
When you do put the reverse lens on your camera, know that the back end with its associated controls, connection pins, rear element and such will also be exposed. Use a rear cap on it when you’re not working with your set-up. Practice the same cautions you use with regards to dust and all will be fine.
Macro options
There are several ways to make macro photos.
These include:
- A Dedicated Macro Lens – The easiest but the most expensive
- Extension tubes or a bellows which increase the distance between the lens and the sensor
- Magnifying lenses (diopters) put in front of an existing lens
- Reversing a lens on the camera – This is the technique we’ll be teaching here.
What lenses work?
Almost any lens can work for this technique including those you usually use on your digital camera. Do you want to see? Take the lens off your camera, hold it backward and tight to the camera body, turn on the camera and get close – very close to a subject. Move very slightly toward and away from the subject to focus. The focus ring has little impact.
You can see this technique shown on numerous online videos and while it may give you a macro in a pinch, it’s not very practical. Trying to hold the camera with a loose lens and adjusting focus might be okay if you’re in the field and have nothing better, but it’s hardly optimal.
You’ll also note that once you disconnect the lens from the camera, you no longer have autofocus or aperture control. The camera may show a blank where the f/stop would typically be. I’ve seen the technique where you set the aperture with the lens on the camera, push the depth-of-field preview button and then disconnect the lens, so the aperture stays fixed at that setting. Right… funky at best. Let’s teach you how to do this right.
Got an old film camera lens?
If you’re an old guy like me, you remember film. You might even have your old film camera and a few lenses for it kicking around. If not, film camera lenses are cheap at pawn shops, online, or even at garage sales. For this technique, lens brand or mount type doesn’t matter since you’re not going to be connecting the lens to the camera in the usual way. Almost ANY lens will work so long as it has filter threads on the front.
The lenses I used with my old Pentax ME Super film camera are a 50mm Pentax lens with a 49mm filter ring and a Vivitar 28-105mm zoom with a 72mm filter ring. The thing to remember when using reversed lenses is the wider the focal length, the closer you can get to your subject. A zoom lens gives you a “variable macro.”
The biggest reason old film camera lenses work best for this is, unlike most digital lenses, they have aperture control rings on the lens. You won’t have aperture control from the camera, so having it on the lens is perfect.
Setting it all up
Here’s where the “backward thinking” comes in. To mount your lens to your camera you need to attach it backward. You need to use an adapter with male threads on one end and the proper mount type for your camera on the other end.
In my case, I used a Canon EOS mount so I could attach the lens to my Canon 6D. I bought two Reversing Ring adapters, one with 72mm threads on one end and a Canon EOS mount on the other. The second, with 49mm threads and a Canon EOS mount on the other. Mine are cheap Fotodiox rings, at $7.95 US each for the 49mm, and 72mm from Amazon. The things to remember when buying these is to get the proper filter thread size and camera mount type.
They are available for Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Panasonic, and many other camera mount types.
The mechanics of making your macros – a step-by-step approach to making this work
Mount the lens
Screw the adapter to the lens filter threads and then mount the lens (backward of course) to the camera. Choose the lens you want by considering how much magnification you want – Shorter focal lengths allow you to get close to the subject with more magnification, longer focal lengths allow you to be further from the subject.
With my lenses, the 50mm Pentax prime gave a little more than a 1:1 ratio. The Vivitar 28-105mm zoom at 28mm was almost a 2:1 ratio. At 105, it was more a “close-up” rather than a macro lens and around 70mm was 1:1.
Use a tripod
The magnification of macro greatly amplifies any camera movement and, with very limited depth of field, trying to work handheld will be frustrating, if not impossible. If there’s any wind, shooting outside probably won’t work either.
Subject Selection
Your depth of field with this technique will be sliver-thin, sometimes only a few millimeters. Beginners might want to start with subjects with minimal depth and shoot them, so they lie in the same “focal plane” as the camera. Stamps, coins, paper bills, or other flat objects are great, especially when you’re learning the technique.
Lighting
You’ll often be really close to your subject and in your own light. You’ll also be wanting to use smaller apertures to get more depth of field, further reducing light. Get creative with how you light your subject.
Camera settings – Use Manual Mode
You will be able to control ISO and Shutter Speed, but not Aperture. Remember, that’s on the lens ring.
Open the Aperture Ring all the way while you focus. Move the camera or subject in tiny increments to get focus (the focus ring won’t have much effect.) If you’re using a zoom, you can use the zoom feature to help you focus. If your camera has Live View, use that. Use the Zoom feature of Live View to magnify your image and check the critical focus. If not, you’ll have to use the viewfinder. Also, remember that autofocus doesn’t work here and so LCD screens where you touch to focus aren’t going to help.
Stop down the Lens with the Aperture Ring once you’ve focused. Smaller apertures (like usual with all photography) give greater depth of field.
You will usually be struggling to get more depth of field in macro photography! Also know that as you stop down the lens, things get darker. It’s sometimes hard to adjust the aperture ring without bumping the focus slightly, so be prepared to refocus.
Making your shots
Shoot, “chimp,” adjust exposure, and repeat. To control exposure typically adjusting shutter speed on the camera should be the easiest. Expect to make LOTS of shots, making adjustments as you go to get that “perfect shot.” Macro photography can be “fiddly,” so get used to it.
Taking it to the next level
If you decide you like macro photography and want to make things a little easier and more precise, you may want to invest in a Focus Rail. Mount this device to your tripod, and mount your camera to it. Using a system of fine gears and adjustment knobs, you can move your camera in tiny increments. Macro is a game of millimeter movements and obtaining more precise control can be a huge help. Taking it up even more, one can buy very sophisticated rails, some with motorized, computer-controlled movement. If you’re ready for that, you’re not as likely to be using the reversed lens technique. I’m quite happy with my Neewer Macro Focusing Rail which cost under US$30.00.
Focus stacking
Sometimes more is better, right? When you can’t get enough depth-of-field with one shot, taking multiple shots (each focused to a just slightly different point), and combining them in editing to get a front-to-back depth of field, may be the answer. Photoshop has focus-stacking capabilities and for a beginner is a good place to start. When you’re ready to dive deep into focus stacking, programs like Helicon Focus or Zerene Stacker are what the pros use.
I have a friend in our camera club who decided to pursue macro photography in a big way. He purchased a motorized, programmable focus rail, a nice macro lens, bellows, extension tubes, and then uses Zyrene Stacker to assemble what are often dozens of images into a single spectacular macro. I’m happy at the moment to use my reverse mounted film camera lenses, (though I did purchase a dedicated Tamron 90mm macro lens too).
Conclusion
One of the attractions of photography is that it teaches you to see and then share through your photos, things people don’t ordinarily notice or see. Macro photography takes that a step further, opening up a tiny and incredible world of detail. The reverse lens macro trick is one that allows you to get a glimpse into this new world with minimal expenditure. I hope you’ll give it a try!
The post Reverse Lens Macro – How to Make Macro Photos with “Backward Thinking” appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Rick Ohnsman.
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Wednesday, 27 February 2019
"Huawei’s Cutest Fans in China? A Troupe of Dancing Children" by RAYMOND ZHONG via NYT https://t.co/4hBbaefhHp https://t.co/9Xw70Y84iy
"Huawei’s Cutest Fans in China? A Troupe of Dancing Children" by RAYMOND ZHONG via NYT https://t.co/4hBbaefhHp pic.twitter.com/9Xw70Y84iy
— Great Tech (@GreatTechUK) February 28, 2019
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February 28, 2019 at 06:19AM
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Sharpest Ultima Thule #space #nasa https://t.co/448jHwwNCH
Sharpest Ultima Thule #space #nasa pic.twitter.com/448jHwwNCH
— Great Tech (@GreatTechUK) February 28, 2019
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February 28, 2019 at 05:43AM
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"MWC 2019: Huawei Politics, Robots and Speedy 5G" by ADAM SATARIANO and EDU BAYER via NYT https://t.co/jTywSvAklC https://t.co/WQNm52wy5K
"MWC 2019: Huawei Politics, Robots and Speedy 5G" by ADAM SATARIANO and EDU BAYER via NYT https://t.co/jTywSvAklC pic.twitter.com/WQNm52wy5K
— Great Tech (@GreatTechUK) February 27, 2019
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February 27, 2019 at 10:44PM
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"F.T.C. Hits https://t.co/ydNFMoITOz With Record Fine for Child Privacy Violation" by CECILIA KANG via NYT https://t.co/jLHJGW5aL4 https://t.co/V1XbUgNeLF
"F.T.C. Hits https://t.co/ydNFMoITOz With Record Fine for Child Privacy Violation" by CECILIA KANG via NYT https://t.co/jLHJGW5aL4 pic.twitter.com/V1XbUgNeLF
— Great Tech (@GreatTechUK) February 27, 2019
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February 27, 2019 at 10:44PM
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Contrast
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My Favorite Travel Street Photography Equipment
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"Samsung Galaxy S10 Plus Review: A $1,000 Smartphone With Compromises" by BRIAN X. CHEN via NYT https://t.co/sTTuMw6pQQ https://t.co/Po7lscBSLi
"Samsung Galaxy S10 Plus Review: A $1,000 Smartphone With Compromises" by BRIAN X. CHEN via NYT https://t.co/sTTuMw6pQQ pic.twitter.com/Po7lscBSLi
— Great Tech (@GreatTechUK) February 27, 2019
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February 27, 2019 at 07:49PM
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Super Photography
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New Mexico City Videos and Vlogs (Batch 4)
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New video by TechSmartt on YouTube
At $750 the Samsung Galaxy S10e vs Apple iPhone XR in a drop test and extreme durability test, this is the ultimate review with EverythingApplePro! Subscribe to TechSmartt: http://bit.ly/SubTechSmartt & Sub to EAP: http://bit.ly/subEAP Galaxy S10 Playlist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhcTeF35eqA&list=PLZ041jvv9Ct2dPG_QIKjphd2IsrDAw3Pp ➽ Subscribe ➽ http://bit.ly/SubTechSmartt Giveaway Instructions - Subscribe to TechSmartt: http://bit.ly/SubTechSmartt - Subscribe to EAP: http://bit.ly/subEAP - Follow @techsmartt on Insta (comment on recent photo) - Follow @phonerebel on Insta (comment on recent photo) 5x Samsung Galaxy S10 Plus, any color, 128GB - open internationally and ends March 12th! Winner's announced on Instagram! Playlists - PBJams: http://pbja.ms/pbj - Space: http://pbja.ms/space - Vibin: http://pbja.ms/vibin Lofi: http://pbja.ms/lofi Before Sleep: http://pbja.ms/sleep Instagram - @techsmartt Twitter - @techsmartt Facebook - /techsmartt Snapchat - @keaton Samsung Galaxy S10 Plus vs iPhone XS Max DROP Test! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mS-7XkuS9x4&list=PLPCx-1KKqYKwlTFWgQEZE14L7H4opJ6sV Samsung Galaxy S10 WATER/FREEZE Test! (Boil & Burn) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WhcTeF35eqA&list=PLPCx-1KKqYKwlTFWgQEZE14L7H4opJ6sV&index=2 $4 Fake AirPods - How Bad Is It? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pdIAoGNMMA8&index=2&list=PLPCx-1KKqYKx_J4fV6alU-LKt6IkWpdzs $99 Fake iPhone XR - How Bad Is It? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0s9OTZKOk0&index=4&list=PLPCx-1KKqYKx_J4fV6alU-LKt6IkWpdzs& The $99 AirPod Killer (Air by crazybaby NANO) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZlTcUpeibhM&t=0s&list=PLPCx-1KKqYKybsfg7PfDZYBAJ9pj7johm&index=2 Selling My iPhone XS Max To a Machine at Walmart https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MxjRu7UtfP0&list=PLPCx-1KKqYKyPMb6J4RHYf2DWPJhwFkQg&index=4&t= —— Comment EXR if u see this :)
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"Limiting Your Digital Footprints in a Surveillance State" by PAUL MOZUR via NYT https://t.co/tbGcLdyHtZ https://t.co/oW4w71mmmY
"Limiting Your Digital Footprints in a Surveillance State" by PAUL MOZUR via NYT https://t.co/tbGcLdyHtZ pic.twitter.com/oW4w71mmmY
— Great Tech (@GreatTechUK) February 27, 2019
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February 27, 2019 at 06:19PM
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How to Find Great Photography Opportunities Where You Live
The post How to Find Great Photography Opportunities Where You Live appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Prasad Np.
Are you one of those folks who wait to travel to an exotic destination to make photographs? Is your camera nicely packed or gathering dust until you are traveling or on an assignment because you don’t have enough inspiration or subjects? If you are one such photographer, then you are actually missing countless photography opportunities right in front of you. No matter what level of skill and experience you have, the more you take your camera out and make photos, the better you get.
Gone are the days when you made images on film, and there was a cost involved in acquiring and processing rolls of films. Now, thanks to the digital cameras, you can take as many photos you want and keep on learning and improving every day.
So there’s no reason to wait until you are traveling to an exotic location to make images. Look around you, and you will find countless opportunities to make beautiful images, test your technical skills and take your game to the next level.
Whether you live in a developing city like Gurgaon (where I live), or in a picturesque mountain town, there are photographs to be made and shared. So the question is, how do you find great photo opportunities when you think you live in a boring location?
The first step is to believe there are beautiful photographs around you that you must capture. It doesn’t matter what your preferred genre of photography is. Whether you enjoy wildlife, landscape, people or street photography, there are photographs to be made right near your home, in your own city.
Advantages of photographing your city and its surroundings
The advantages of photographing your city and its surroundings include:
- You get to practice photography regularly and dissect your photographs technically and artistically to take better photos next time
- You don’t have to travel a lot. You can always take pictures close to your home
- Unlike when traveling to an exotic, faraway location where you may get only a short window to get the shot, closer to home you can always revisit the place and get the shots you may have missed the first time
- If you are not happy with some of the photos, you can always go again and click, and you can also plan the shots in a better way, especially in cases like the city skyline, or sunsets
So here are a few pointers for you to find great photo opportunities right where you live. In this post, I am sharing some images I made in Gurgaon – a city I now call home.
Go for skyline and redefine it
Every city has its own iconic skyline that people can identify it with. However, that should not restrict you from trying to redefine or interpret it in your way. You can always go for a different shot; especially if the city is still developing. Capturing it as it develops creates an everlasting record of the change the city went through as it grew.
Even the most mundane of skylines can give a dramatic effect when you combine it with beautiful clouds or a sunset. Because you know the best vantage points from your previous experiences in your city, you can be well prepared and reach the spot in time to get the shot you have always wanted to take.
Photograph seasonal natural phenomenon like blooming of trees
Many cities in Japan are known for the Sakura or Cherry Blossom festivals. Think about what the equivalent may be in your city. Every change of season brings a visual spectacle that is a hallmark of that season. In Gurgaon and most of North India, April to June are months of Golden Shower. The hotter the weather, the more beautiful flowers of Indian laburnum trees you find. Make a point to find out when the local trees in your area are in bloom, so you are prepared to take their pictures. An advantage of this is you can go over an extended period and click pictures of the same tree in various stages of bloom, including being barren in autumn. If you have these trees growing close to local landmarks, then your pictures may be easily identified with your city.
Local festivals and fairs
Local festivals & fairs are a great way to photograph your local community and happenings around you. Festivals and fairs are excellent opportunities to document the vibrancy and bonhomie of your city and how people connect – more so when a festival is a community event. “Lohri” is one such festival celebrated on 13th of January every year. Here, they light large communal bonfires in various housing communities, and people walk around the fire singing songs and celebrating. Find out what festivals your city celebrates. It could be as big as Christmas or something that could be very local, like a fair. Be there and make images to your heart’s desire.
Night photography in your city
A big city is no place for star trails as light pollution may be too much. However, there are other night photography opportunities in abundance. All you need is a good vantage point, your DSLR and a sturdy tripod. Any high-rise with a safe observation area or a balcony can become your vantage point to capture the light trails of vehicles down below.
Look for exciting locations like a curve in the local metro train tracks and wait for the train to come along. You can also click interesting images while incorporating the moon against your city skyline. The photo below of Super blood moon was deliberately clicked with part of it hiding behind the building to give an idea of the size of the moon compared to a normal one you see in the picture with the power towers.
Go abstract
Night photography is also a great time to go abstract with some images of your city. While there are no creative limits to what you can do when trying to create a work of abstract photography, it is always a good idea to never overdo it, especially when you are beginning. A creative idea you can try is to move to manual focus and deliberately click out of focus images that render the distant lights with a bokeh-like effect. Use a tripod or keep your camera on a sturdy surface. Also, use a time release button or remote to click images to keep your images sharp.
Be observant of your surroundings
One of the keys to photography is being observant of your surroundings. Even when you are on your apartment balcony or in your backyard, there are enough photography opportunities available to you. If you live in a highrise, look down. You may get an interesting frame like the photo below of the two kids carrying similar umbrellas on the sidewalk. Or perhaps, the cars passing below under the trees that look like a beast under the canopy of the rainforest.
Conclusion
As you can see, any place can be a good location for making photographs. Don’t miss any opportunity to take photos as it helps in honing your skills both technically and artistically. Most of all, photographing your own city helps you learn much faster. You have an opportunity to click images in various seasons, in many light situations and go back as you need.
Now it is your turn, do share where you live and your favorite image that you made in your own city.
The post How to Find Great Photography Opportunities Where You Live appeared first on Digital Photography School. It was authored by Prasad Np.
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